Lucca

Lucca has held its corner of Cevdet Paşa since 2004 — the Bebek room that has trained two generations of the neighbourhood's regulars to come for the seasonal kitchen, stay through the cocktail list, and pivot to the dancefloor when the bistro tips into bar at eleven. The menu changes on the produce calendar; the mojitos and the satsuma-vodka cocktails are the bar's two well-known stories.

Reserve dinner at nine on a Friday, eat early, and let the room turn over around you. The terrace is the right summer seat; the inner room is where the night settles.

The Bebek dinner that becomes the night out.