La Vague d'Or

Donckèle's work at La Vague d'Or is the rare three-star kitchen that has both a clear authorial voice and a sense of place — the broths, the sauces, the long fermented stocks built on the Provençal larder. The room is small, the service is silent, and the experience is structured around two long tasting menus that are taken in five hours rather than three.

Book six weeks ahead for an in-house guest, eight for an outside reservation. Take the menu rather than à la carte, sit in the second seating after 21h, and request a corner table.

Eat here once, on the second evening.