Colette

Colinet has been at Colette since the room opened and has held the star quietly through changes upstairs in the hotel. The cooking is precise, technical, Mediterranean — fish, oil, gardens, the things that justify a one-star in this part of the country. The terrace under the pines is the right place for a long lunch on arrival day.

Sit on the terrace, take the chef's tasting at lunch, ask for the Provençal wine pairing. The room remains one of the calmest in town for a serious meal that is not a three-star marathon.

The first lunch of the trip.