Tutto Il Giorno

Tutto Il Giorno is the antidote to Bilboquet — same Sag Harbor, same regular crowd, but a softer room, an easier pace, and a kitchen that does southern-Italian classics without trying to be the loudest table in town. The Sag Harbor location is the original and shares a building with Donna Karan's Urban Zen store, which gives the room a quietly elegant feel — linen napkins, warm lighting, the kind of dining room you can talk in.

I book Tutto for the night before the wedding, for the parents who want a calm dinner before two days of celebration, and for honeymooners who want pasta and a proper Barolo without the scene. The Southampton location is the better choice if you are staying on the south side.

The Sag Harbor table for the quiet evening.