Le Bilboquet Sag Harbor

The Sag Harbor Bilbo is the festive table of the Hamptons — the one where the music gets louder around 10 p.m., where the rosé arrives without anyone ordering it, and where you will see at least one person you know from Aspen, Saint-Tropez, or the Upper East Side. The food is honest French bistro — the Cajun chicken is the famous dish for a reason — but no one comes here for the food alone. They come for the room, the wharf, and the noise.

For EVJF dinners and significant birthdays, I book the long banquette table for twelve and ask for the eight-thirty seating so the room is already at full volume by the time the cake arrives. Book three weeks ahead in July and August.

The Hamptons summer table.