Günaydın Kebap

Günaydın has held a top-three position in Istanbul's kebab-and-steakhouse ranking through the past decade — quality of meat that the chain has built its reputation on, the meze, the içli köfte, the katmer dessert. The Etiler branch is the calmer of the city's locations: a residential neighbourhood address rather than a tourist room, with the local regulars on the terrace.

Reserve the terrace at dinner, take the meze tray and the pistachio kebap, and finish with the katmer. The Kalamış marina branch is the view version; this is the kitchen one.

The Etiler dinner the regulars keep to themselves.