Fenix

Fenix sits in Etiler with a Mediterranean garden, high ceilings and the kind of decor that the long Istanbul night calls for — Pan-Asian on one side of the menu, French seafood on the other, and the slide from dining room to dancefloor after eleven that defines the neighbourhood's longer evenings. The kitchen rotates its list around the season; the garden room is the warm-weather seat.

Reserve the garden table at nine, pace the early plates, and let the room turn. The cocktail bar runs late; the Tuesday and Wednesday nights are calmer than the weekend.

The Etiler dinner that turns over.