Nihonryori Ryugin

Seiji Yamamoto has held three stars at Ryugin for fifteen consecutive years and continues to chart the largest map of Japanese cuisine in Tokyo — the knife work is relentless, the charcoal precise, the science of each ingredient stated aloud at the counter. From January to March, Ryugin serves only the fugu course, and the room becomes the single most ambitious tasting in the city.

Book eight weeks ahead through the website or the hotel. Take the fugu course if the calendar lands between January and March, otherwise the seasonal tasting. Sit at the counter for the second seating after 21h.

The kaiseki that defines the modern standard.