Ginza Kojyu

Toru Okuda runs the Ginza counter the way a master craftsman runs a workshop — Shizuoka water for the dashi, Suruga Bay fish on the morning train, and the cypress counter that has aged to the colour of old gold. The kaiseki is built on the technique of his training at Aoyagi in Tokushima, where he stood alongside Yamamoto of Ryugin before opening his own room.

Book through TableAll four weeks ahead, take the longer of the two seasonal menus, and sit at the counter. The right kaiseki when Ryugin is full and the brief is still the proper Japanese dinner in Ginza walking distance.

The Ginza kaiseki for the proper evening.