Den

Zaiyu Hasegawa has spent fifteen years rewriting the modern kaiseki — the seasonal monaka, the precise garden-salad, the famous Den Fried Chicken served in its red-and-yellow box. The room is warm, the service is in English, and the menu manages the rare trick of being technically serious and genuinely amusing in the same sitting.

Book six weeks ahead through the website. Take the full tasting and sit at the counter for the closer look at the kitchen. The most-recommended dinner for the American guest who finds the silent counters intimidating but still wants the proper Tokyo dinner.

The Tokyo dinner that talks back.