Eleven Madison Park

Daniel Humm took Eleven Madison Park to a fully plant-based menu in 2021, kept the three stars, and divided the conversation about fine dining in New York for a season. The kitchen has had time to settle since and the menu reads now as the most ambitious vegetable cooking on this scale anywhere.

The Art Deco room facing Madison Square is the other reason to go — the volumes, the light, the bar at the front of the house. Book the tasting menu at the bar if the dining room is sold out; the cooking is the same and the seats are easier to come by.

Book it for the plant-based tasting at the bar.