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Kiki on the River

Miami · Miami River · Greek, long lunches

Kiki on the River

The Greek room on the Miami River where lunch runs into the evening — whole fish, a garden under the trees, and the boats tied up at the dock.

Kiki was the room that turned the Miami River into a dining address. The formula is simple and it works: a Greek kitchen doing whole fish and meze properly, a garden under string lights and old trees, a dock for anyone arriving by boat, and no particular hurry about when lunch ends. Sunday afternoons there have a reputation, and it is deserved.

Go at one on a Sunday, order the fish by weight, sit outside. It is loud, it is not a quiet dinner, and pretending otherwise would be doing you a disservice.

Two other ways to take the river and the Aegean. Casa Neos, further along the water, is the larger build — thirty thousand square feet across a restaurant, a beach club, a lounge and a members rooftop, with the same dock-and-dine arrival. And if it is the Greek kitchen you want rather than the river, AVA in Coconut Grove works a MediterrAegean menu in a room built for dinner rather than for the afternoon.

The long Sunday lunch that made the river a destination.

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