George & John at The Drisco

George & John runs out of The Drisco's restored colonial dining room in Jaffa and serves Tomer Tal's tasting menu — modern Israeli cooking with a register closer to a European dining room than to the markets two streets over. The kitchen is one of the few in the country pursuing a fine-dining format with conviction.

Book the tasting one month ahead, take the wine pairing, plan three hours for the dinner. The room seats twenty-eight and fills entirely from the hotel and a handful of regulars. For a client who wants the formal counterpart to the Florentin chef counters, the address is the answer.

The Jaffa tasting menu.