Tékés

Tékés is Assaf Granit's vegetarian Israeli room, opened on the rue Saint-Sauveur as the meat-free sister to Shabour next door. The kitchen turns vegetables into the kind of theatre that Tel Aviv has long perfected — slow-roasted celeriac, smoked aubergine, the bread service that arrives in a hot pan. It is the most ambitious vegetarian table in the centre.

Book the counter facing the open kitchen, take the chef's selection, drink the Israeli rosé. The dinner is the right answer for the vegetarian friend who does not want the compromise menu.

The vegetarian dinner that the meat-eater also remembers.