Shabour

Shabour is Assaf Granit and Uri Navon's chef's counter on rue Saint-Sauveur — twenty seats around the open kitchen, no written menu, the cooks shouting the dishes across the pass in the Tel Aviv style. The star arrived in the first year and the reservation list has not eased since.

Book six weeks ahead for the first service, take the chef's run, drink the natural sake. The dinner is the most theatrical Israeli kitchen in the city and the only reservation that the Paris-by-Mouth crowd still treats as compulsory.

The Saint-Sauveur counter on the second evening.