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Le Cinq

Paris · 3★ Michelin

Le Cinq

The Four Seasons George V's three-star room under Christian Le Squer — classical, technical, the formal Paris dinner that does not pretend otherwise.

Le Squer has held three stars at Le Cinq since 2016 and remains the reference for technically classical Paris cooking — the sauces are the point, the seafood is the proof. The room is the most formal of the palace three-stars, which is the right register for the kind of dinner that closes a deal or marks a date.

Book four weeks ahead, take the tasting menu, sit on the courtyard side. The dress code is enforced; the wine list is one of the deepest in the city. This is the address I default to for the client who wants three stars and refuses concept.

The dinner that does not need a story.

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