france · April — October
Aix, Gordes, Saint-Rémy, Lorgues, Tourtour. The inland Var and the Luberon — the country that the Riviera quietly drives to on the Tuesday of every August. La Bastide de Gordes, La Bastide de Tourtour, Château la Coste. The Provence we send our clients to when the coast becomes too much.
Where to begin
The addresses I would send to a friend on the first visit. The full guide is below.
Palace · 5★ · GordesThe Sireh family palace on the cliff of Gordes — the long pool with the Luberon valley in the front, the Tigrr restaurant, the most ambitious Provence palace of the last decade.
Vineyard · Aix-en-ProvenceThe Gaude winery and gastronomic table on the road to Saint-Marc — own vineyards, the cellar tour, the long lunch on the terrace facing the Sainte-Victoire.
Asian · GordesThe Asian dinner room inside La Bastide de Gordes — the long terrace with the Luberon view, the Asian-Mediterranean kitchen, the most festive Provence dinner of the moment.
5★ Country hotel · Le Puy-Sainte-RéparadeThe eighteenth-century château hotel north of Aix — the long park, the working vineyard, the swimming pool in the formal garden.
Vineyard art hotel · Le Puy-Sainte-RéparadeThe Paddy McKillen wine-and-art estate north of Aix — Tadao Ando, Frank Gehry, Renzo Piano, the cellar by Jean Nouvel and the contemporary art walk through the vines.
Wednesday market · Saint-Rémy-de-ProvenceThe Wednesday market in the centre of Saint-Rémy — the long stall walk, the bouquinistes, the most photographed Alpilles morning ritual.
Vineyard · LorguesThe Roubine vineyard near Lorgues — the long cellar tour, the rosé tasting, the inland Var producer the locals have built into the rotation.
Walk · RoussillonThe ochre cliffs of Roussillon — the marked walk through the orange sandstone, the morning hike that the Luberon villas build the day around.
Authentic · the quiet rooms
Reserve the quiet dinner.
Country hotel · Les Baux-de-ProvenceThe Manville estate below Les Baux — the working golf course, the long terrace lunch, the Sunday brunch the local clients build the week around.
1★ Michelin · GordesThe gastronomic dining room inside La Bastide de Gordes — one star, the seasonal Provençal kitchen, the precise alternative to the Tigrr next door.
Restaurant · AvignonThe Avignon contemporary dining room — the open kitchen, the seasonal market menu, the precise modern Provence kitchen.
Country lunch · Aix areaThe small country restaurant in the Aix countryside — the seasonal kitchen, the long garden table, the inland Provence lunch.
Bistro · Aix centreThe Aix centre bistro — the small dining room, the seasonal menu, the address the locals have kept off the cours Mirabeau lists.
Restaurant · AvignonThe Avignon dining room in the nineteenth-century mansion — the candlelit dinner, the long garden terrace, the address the regulars have kept.
Bistro · near AvignonThe small country bistro five minutes from Avignon — the daily menu on the chalkboard, the long garden table, the inland Vaucluse lunch.
Bistro · AvignonThe Avignon dinner bistro — the small dining room, the seasonal market menu, the address the local creative crowd has earned.
Tables
Book the table.
Brasserie · Aix centreThe cours Mirabeau brasserie facing the fountain — the long pavement terrace, the all-day kitchen, the Aix institution.